A few days in Aracaju

After my wonderful 16 days of holiday, I headed up to Aracaju in the north east of Brazil to begin my fieldwork. I had a rather interesting journey up, as I took a flight from Rio but had to change in Salvador. I was expecting to have to pay excess baggage since I have such a ridiculous amount of luggage, but at Rio they didn’t charge me. I thought myself rather lucky, and didn’t question it too much. But when I arrived at Salvador they made me collect my bags and check them in again (*sigh*) and when I got to the counter the man told me than one of my bags would need to be retagged because it had increased in weight by 20kg since Rio! I told him I hadn’t touched the bag other than to carry it from the baggage claim, and so I couldn’t see it had gained all this weight?! Clearly the woman in Rio had cheated the system for me so that she didn’t have to charge me excess, but I was surprised at how unperturbed the man at the check-in desk was about this miraculous increase in weight! It wasn’t too expensive though so I paid the fee and got on my final flight.

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Relaxing in Rio

For the final part of my holiday, I took a short flight from Iguacu over to Rio de Janeiro for a few days relaxing in the sun. After all my traveling I was quite tired and so I decided to take it fairly easy here and not try to do too much. The first day I arrived, I settled into my hotel in Copacabana and in the late afternoon I headed out for a stroll along the beach. I walked along the famous Copacabana beach all the way to Ipanema, where many of the wealthier Cariocas (locals) now live. I arrived here just in time to watch the sun set over the beach, which was very beautiful. My initial concerns about safety in Rio were quickly overcome by how beautiful the beaches were and how lovely the sunset was. That evening I went out for dinner in Ipanema and then headed back to my hotel for an early night.

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My Amazon Adventure

After a gruelling 27 hours of travelling and 4 airports, I arrived in Manaus. A 20minute boat ride and one brief dolphin sighting later, and we arrived at the Eco lodge, where we were greeted with welcome drinks and shown to our room. After some lunch and a shower, I headed out to start my first tour of the trip – to see a local Amazonian tribe.

The tour began with a 45-minute ride down the Rio Negro on a two-storey boat. The scenery was stunning. It’s hard to express the scale of the river, especially when you consider that it is just a small tributary of the Amazon itself. Where exactly the river ends and the land begins is difficult to tell, as the trees at the edge are partly submerged. On past a strange contrast of ram-shackle huts and expensive condos, we finally arrived at a small patch of shore slopping steeply up into what appeared to be dense forest. A few meters through the trees though, and I found myself standing in a large wooden hut, with a dried-grass roof. Inside were a small tribe of authentic Amazonian people. Dressed in grass skirts, with red face paint forming dots and lines across their faces, they proceeded to demonstrate a series of traditional dances with traditional musical instruments. For the final dance a few of the men in our tour were selected, adorned with elaborate headgear made from grass and feathers, and asked to join in. To my dismay, although not total shock, not long into the dance, the tribes men came over to select some women to join in as well, and before I knew what was happening, I was being dragged to centre stage to join in with the dance, which seemed to consist of a mixture of a conga line and the hokey-kokey. If you had told me this morning if I would have been getting up and dancing a traditional tribal dance, I would have thought you were crazy.

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